Svalbard is the most accessible of all the remote, barely-inhabited regions and islands within the Arctic Circle. Located at 78º north, this archipelago is an Arctic desert made up of captivating tundra landscapes offering truly amazing hiking opportunities, and the chance of seeing polar bears.

This was the best trip that I have ever taken from a nature perspective. This post is an in-depth travel guide to Svalbard. You’ll find everything you need about how to get there and where to stay. It also includes information on activities, cruise excursions, prices, and more.

Travelling to Svalbard: An introduction

Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago located in the Arctic. Although it is much closer to Norway’s mainland than to the North Pole, it is still 650km away.

Svalbard is a part of Norway but has a special status

Svalbard, as recognized by the Svalbard Treaty of 1921, is part of Norway. According to the treaty however, not all Norwegian law applies in Svalbard.

Any country can engage in scientific, industrial, or commercial activities within the archipelago. And anyone can travel and stay there without a visa for as long they want, regardless of whether they have a job.

Is this Spitsbergen?

Spitsbergen was the original name given by the Dutchman, who discovered it in the year 1596. Svalbard was the name given to the archipelago when it became part of Norway, in 1920. The term appeared in old Icelandic Viking text.

Regular people live in Svalbard

Svalbard’s inhabitants are ordinary people who live in other parts of the world. There are not only scientists in this town, but also doctors and teachers, as well as policemen, plumbers and tour guides.

Svalbard is not home to any indigenous people. Svalbard is the only Arctic region in which there are no signs of an indigenous population. Not even the ancient Viking texts mention it. Svalbard is now inhabited by people all over the globe, mainly Europeans and Russians. There is also a large Thai community and Filipinos.

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Svalbard has many Settlements

Svalbard is not completely isolated. It has a few small towns and settlements. Longyearbyen, the largest town in Norway, is home to about 2300 people. You’ll find supermarkets and shops, as well a school, a restaurant, a gallery, and a musem.

Barentsburg is the largest settlement in the region, with a majority of Russians and Ukrainians living there. Svalbard is a place where it’s illegal to be interred and women are not allowed to give birth.

Svalbard does not allow people to die due to the permafrost. Permafrost is a frozen layer that lies beneath Svalbard’s surface and prevents decomposition. Svalbard’s hospitals are not ready to deliver babies, but they will help in an emergency.

Svalbard, a frozen Desert

Svalbard is a land without trees, and the vegetation is so sparse that starvation kills most reindeer. Svalbard, in its purest form, is a desert. It’s also a beautiful one.

Is it true that there are more polar bears in the world than people?

Svalbard people will always try to convince you that Svalbard contains more polar-bears than humans.

This isn’t accurate. It’s true that a large number of polar bears live on the islands. However, the exact numbers are unknown. They also migrate to other parts of the Arctic and Russia.

How to get a Svalbard visa?

Technically, Svalbard is part of Norway, but the Svalbard treaty signed in 2020 prohibits any discrimination between nationalities. This means that anyone can visit Svalbard and stay as long as they like without needing a visa.

Svalbard is likely the only inhabited region where all nationalities are allowed to travel visa free. Remember that Svalbard is not part of the Schengen area, so EU citizens, and even Norwegians, will need to travel with their passports.

How to get to Svalbard?

Svalbard can only be reached by plane today. Cruise ships also depart from Greenland. Scotland and Amsterdam. However, there are no passenger ferry services. Svalbard Airport is located in Longyearbyen.

The best time to visit Svalbard

Svalbard can be visited at any time, even in the dark and long winter months. Here’s everything you need to know about Svalbard season by season.

Traveling to Svalbard in winter (November – February)

Svalbard can be as cold as it sounds during the winter. From mid-November through the end January, the entire island is in darkness 24 hours a days. This is a natural phenomenon called polar nights.

This is an excellent time to enjoy snow-related activities, such as dog-sledding and snowmobile excursions. Winter is not the best time to see wildlife or visit remote areas of Svalbard because cruise ships cannot break through the ice.

Travel to Svalbard in summer (June – mid-September)

While polar nights may be appealing to some people, nothing can compare with polar day and 24-hour sun.

It’s a must-do to leave a bar at 12:30 am in Longyearbyen and be blinded with the brightest sun. Summer is the best season to see wildlife and go hiking. It’s also the only time when cruise ships are allowed in the area.

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Traveling to Svalbard the rest of the year is possible (March to May, and mid-September to early October).

You can have a little bit of everything depending on what month and when you visit.

How to get around Svalbard by Transport?

Only the airport bus is available for public transportation in Svalbard. Longyearbyen has a large area, so you may need a taxi depending on where your stay is.

You will need to book a tour in order to leave Longyearbyen. Transportation is always provided by boat or snowmobile.

Where to stay in Svalbard?

Longyearbyen is home to a number of places to stay. I stayed in a backpackers’ hostel with a low price tag.

Booking your accommodation early is a must.

  • Backpacking budget: Gjestehuset 102. The cheapest option at Longyearbyen. A cozy hostel, but it is located 3km away from the town center.
  • Budget: Coal Miner Cabins The hostel is located right next door. If you are two people, the price for a double room is equal to the price of 2 dorms.
  • Svalbard Hotels | Polfareren: Nice hotel in the centre of Longyearbyen – if you have the money.

Shop and eat in Svalbard

Longyearbyen has a number of shops including a modern grocery store, pharmacies, and clothing stores with high-quality winter wear.

Svalbard shopping is expensive. Stock up on winter clothing back home. Svalbard has a good selection of restaurants, including some high-end ones. Seal, whale and reindeer are local specialties.

Travelers who are interested in trying this controversial cuisine will be disappointed to learn that all the meat is imported from the Norwegian mainland. Svalbard lacks the infrastructure and facilities to ensure quality.

In Kroa, we enjoyed some fish and tried dried seal in Vinterhagen. We also tried Coal Miners restaurant, which serves mostly international cuisine. There are also Thai and Mexican restaurants in the capital. Svalbard Bryggeri AS, a local brewery, is also available.

Budget and Money

The Norwegian Krone (NOK), which is used in Svalbard.

1 USD = 10 NOK

All prices are in NOK, but most businesses only accept debit or credit cards.

How much is it to travel to Svalbard?

Svalbard has a high price tag. This is the most expensive place I’ve ever visited. Here are some prices for the most common items.

  • Accommodation: starting at 1000 NOK per double room
  • Food: starting at 300 NOK for main meal
  • Drinks starting at 100 NOK a pint for beer
  • Tours start at 2000 NOK per day
  • Flights: around €450 return from Oslo/Tromso
  • Cruise: from €3800 for an 8-day tour

Polar Bears at Svalbard

Polar bears are a popular attraction for visitors to Svalbard, but not all of them get to see one. Polar bears are mostly found in Svalbard’s northern regions. They are rare in the area of Longyearbyen. The polar bears do appear from time to time but the chances are slim that you will see one.

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If you’re only staying in Longyearbyen for a few days, your best chances of seeing a bear are on day trips that go by water. Even then, if you happen to spot one, you’ll likely see it from a distance.

Unfortunately, the best way to see polar wolves is by taking an extended cruise. We saw 4 polar bears on our cruise, one of which was relatively close, walking along the beach and approaching our zodiac.

Is Svalbard safe for travel? 

Polar bears look cute but they are dangerous because of their desire for human flesh. There have been many fatal incidents involving tourists and polar bears.

Why don’t you just hike on your own? Polar bears is the answer.

You must always have a local guide with you when you leave the perimeter of Longyearbyen. Or a person who has been certified to carry a firearm. Locals are always armed with a rifle, no matter where they go. The law states that you can only use a gun if you feel like your life is at risk, such as when the polar-bear is too close to you and ready to attack.

Svalbard: Things to do

Svalbard has many places to see. Here’s just a few of the places you can visit in Svalbard.

Longyearbyen

In this Svalbard guide, we have mentioned Longyearbyen quite a bit. This is the capital of Svalbard, and the first introduction to the Arctic for any traveler. It’s worth a visit for a half-day.

The center of town has a museum which showcases the history of the country. This is mainly related to the explorers and settlers who have stepped foot on the islands over the last two centuries. There’s a quirky church worth seeing and less than 2km east – around here – there’s a lake featuring the world famous warning sign with a polar bear.

Pyramiden

Pyramiden was a Soviet abandoned coal mining town which operated between 1910 and 1998. Today, it’s a tourist destination and one of the most popular places in Svalbard.

This mining town, which used to house around 1000 people, had a theatre, a swimming pool abandoned, a cantina open 24 hours a day, a school, a library and, of course, Lenin’s statue, located at the northernmost point. All of these sites are still accessible.

Currently, a few people live in Pyramiden and help maintain the place. There’s a café where you can get Russian beer, vodka and Russian snacks. Pyramiden was a highlight of my trip to Svalbard.

Hiking the Hiorthfjellet summit – The Arctic Challenge

The Arctic Challenge is a challenging hike in Svalbard. To reach Hiorthfjellet, you will need to kayak 4 kilometers across the fjord, climb 928 meters and then kayak back to Longyearbyen.

The entire activity takes approximately 11 hours. It’s tough, but it’s worth it for adventurous hikers.

Barentsburg

I would like to go to Barentsburg in Russia to see the differences between Longyearbyen and Barentsburg.

Conclusion: Is Svalbard a worthwhile destination?

During my trip to Svalbard, we sailed up to 81º north, right to the edge of the ice pack that surrounds the North Pole. On the way we saw 4 polar-bears, including one that was pretty close. We also went on shore multiple times to climb small peaks which offered us stunning Arctic views.

We experienced the Arctic Silence and it felt amazing to be in such a remote area. It was so beautiful, desolated and isolated. We visited a Soviet-era mining town and saw many walrus. We also saw 3 seals asleep on the ice. Was Svalbard well worth the price? It was absolutely worth every penny that I paid. We have yet to meet anyone who hasn’t enjoyed their time in Svalbard.

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Oliver Gaebe
Oliver Gaebe er chefredaktør på travelindustry.news og rapporterer fra hele verden. Han har specialiseret sig i at rapportere om hoteller og destinationer.